More thoughts on chocolate

Although the history of chocolate in the UK goes back 400 years, its world history is much older. Evidence of chocolate production and consumption as a drink goes back over 4,000 years in Central America. It is probable that the drink featured in major Mayan ceremonies and was almost certainly reserved for the well to do.

The Latin botanical name for Cocoa is Theobroma cacao; literally, “food of the gods.” In the twenty first century, demand for cocoa, the basic ingredient for chocolate, is still climbing heavenwards. Supply is struggling to keep pace.

Although originally cultivated in the Americas, over 70% of the world’s production now comes from Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana. In 2023 – 2024, a perfect storm hit production. Poor farming practices, disease, and climate change saw harvests fail and prices rocketed, peaking at more than $12,000. The graph below maps the price on each New Year’s Day since 1990. It evidences only a modest increase until the events of this decade.

Although they have since eased, falling to $6,000 a tonne this month, that is nearly three times the price five years ago. To survive, sweet-makers have raised their prices and pushed chocolate-free treats, such as gummies.

More innovative solutions are in the pipeline too.

In 2024 the Swiss chocolate maker, Lindt, launched a limited-edition snack bar with Planet A Foods, a German startup who process sunflower seeds to mimic the taste of cocoa.

Meanwhile, Mondelez, the owner of Cadbury’s, is backing an Israeli startup in the development of bio-identical cocoa that is grown, or “cultured”, in a laboratory from plant cells.

Other similar initiatives are underway in Europe, the USA and Japan. They are following on from similar attempts to grow meat products in the laboratory. To date, none of the cell-culture startups has regulatory approval, and they are unlikely become commercially viable for some years yet. Lab-grown cocoa will supplement, rather than replace, the tree-grown variety. But will the chocolatier of the future wear a lab-coat rather than an apron?

Published: 22 January 2026
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